We do offer pre-wiring services. However, we do understand if you’ve already got an electrical contractor you’re working with. It would be best to contact us
so we can determine what antenna setup would work best for your location, where it will be located (attic, roof, tower) and what pre-wiring options would best serve your needs.
-Ensure that RG-6 or RG-6QS coax is used for all in-wall runs (NOT RG-59).
-Black (U/V-resistant) cable MUST be used for all outdoor cable runs. White (non-UV-resistant) cable quickly degrades when exposed to sunlight.
-All cable runs should be one continuous piece of cabling running directly back to the distribution point – NO IN-WALL SPLICES AND NO IN-WALL SPLITTERS!!!
-If you want both satellite TV and antenna service simultaneously, run two sets of coax to each location.
-If Cable service is available, you may want to run TWO coax cables to the spot where the Cable Modem is to be located. That way, the Cable Modem, Router and antenna DVR system can be located together and connected via wired Ethernet.
Distribution point: It’s best to have all coax, Ethernet and phone wiring converging at a central distribution point, often located in basement or utility room. Structured wiring panels and equipment racks are sometimes employed as well.
We recommend installing a power strip/surge protector or uninterruptible power supply near the distribution point, in order to accommodate the numerous devices powering today’s home IT & A/V infrastructure.
Attic Antennas: Run a coax line from the distribution point to the attic. Two lines would be preferable if you’re also interested in an antenna for FM radio. For maximum flexibility, a flexible conduit tube can be run between the attic and distribution point.
While attic antenna systems can receive some signal through asphalt shingles, plywood and wood/vinyl siding, they absolutely will not work with metal roofing, foil-backed insulation or stucco/steel siding. If you plan on using these materials, the antenna needs to be mounted outdoors, away from metal materials.)
Outdoor Antennas: One option would be to run coax AND a ground wire (#17CCS, #10 Copper or #8 Aluminum) to the attic and/or up through an attic vent to the roof, close to where the attic antenna is to be installed. Ensure black (U/V-resistant) cable is used. Alternatively, a flexible conduit tube can be run between the attic and distribution point.
Another option would be to run coax from the distribution point to the exterior of the house, near the utility entrances and Intersystem Bonding Termination block. Two for FM & TV antennas.
Rotor-controlled Antennas: The rotor system requires an 18/3 cable (sometimes used as thermostat wire or XLR microphone cable). This should be run from the distribution point alongside the coax to the antenna and from the distribution point to any place(s) you might want to control box located.
Satellite TV/Satellite Internet: Run coax and grounding (#17CCS, #10 Copper or #8 Aluminum) from the distribution point to either to an attic/out of an attic vent or have a flexible conduit tube installed between the attic and distribution point. Coax/ground can also be run to a location near the utility entrances and Intersystem Bonding Termination block. At least one coax per service (check with your provider on this). It is also useful to have a site survey done beforehand to determine where the dish will need to be mounted in order to receive signal. We have the tools to survey for all available satellite services.
Cable Service: Run coax from the distribution point to the utility entrances and Intersystem Bonding Termination.
Fiber Internet: Most fiber providers convert the fiber to Ethernet at the demarcation point. Run a Cat 5 (or better) Ethernet line from the distribution point to the utility entranced and Intersystem Bonding Termination block.
Coax outlets: It’s best to have coax cabling run to all locations you might possibly want to install a TV set: Living room, den, office, garage, bedrooms, etc. Additionally, you may want to have jacks installed on more than one wall of a large room, so that a TV set can be installed in various locations without having to run cable half-way around the room.
Above-fireplace TV mounts: You’ll want 3-4 cables run for above-fireplace TV locations:
-Power outlet (to power the set – preferably a recessed outlet box).
-HDMI jack (run in-wall to a nearby HDMI jack, for connection to disc player, game console, receiver or other components).
-Coax jack (for direct OTA tuning on the TV. We often see this omitted, necessitating the addition of an external tuner box, connected to in-wall HDMI jack).
-Ethernet jack (wired Internet/network connection, for best streaming performance-optional)
Home networking and Whole-House WiFi: For optimal WiFi speed and coverage, we recommend having a WiFi access point no further than ~30ft from any place in the house. Additionally, HVAC ducts and other metal objects can cause dead spots in WiFi coverage with a single access point. For this reason, we recommend using 2-3 separate access points located throughout the house. Make sure to have several Ethernet lines installed for this purpose – wired Ethernet gives much better results than WiFi-to-WiFi repeaters or network-over-power line systems.
Additionally, you may want consider having Ethernet lines installed at TV locations or places a desktop computer might be located.
-For maximum flexibility, consider running conduit to outbuldings.
-Any buried cable should be explicitly rated for direct burial.
-TV cable should be RG-11 type and NOT RG-6 (especially when over 200ft in length).
-Ethernet cabling is limited in distance to 328ft (100M). Beyond that distance, consider Ethernet extenders, Ethernet-to-fiber or point-to-point WiFi links.
Fixed Wireless Internet: At some rural locations, Fixed Wireless Internet service is the best option available. For MN residents, we have prepared a list of Fixed Wireless providers (by county). We recommend contacting the provider(s) in your area to determine if they serve your location. They may have also have to perform a site survey.
Reception of fixed wireless signals is strictly line-of-sight. At some locations, a roof-mounted antenna may be all that’s needed. Other locations may require a remotely-mounted antenna, tower or a relay system. We can assist in installation, if necessary.
Most Fixed Wireless providers use a receiving antenna that connects to Ethernet, paired with an Ethernet Power inserter (PoE) located indoors, so you will need to run black (UV-resistant) Ethernet between the distribution point and the mounting site. Running a flexible conduit tube from the distribution point the attic is an alternative (the cable can be run through a roof vent and through the conduit)
Cell Booster Systems:
Before building, you will want to consider whether a cell booster system may be necessary to ensure un-interrupted call quality and fast data speeds.
The first step would be to take out your phone, walk around the property and observe how strong the service is. If it’s below 2-3 bars outside, you may want to consider a booster system.
If you plan on using metal/stucco siding, or foil-backed insulation, which block cell signal, you will definitely want to consider one.
Cell boosters require specialized, low-loss cabling, such as RG-11 or LMR-400 (depending on the system) and an outdoor antenna. Additionally, one or more indoor antennas need to be mounted in specific locations to ensure even coverage – also using specialized, low-loss cabling.
If you are considering a cell booster, please contact us. We will need to perform a site survey, review blueprints to optimize antenna placement and make accommodations for cabling installation. Additionally, we can use our test equipment to determine which cell carrier offers the strongest signal at your location.